James Bay Road website

July 2000 trip

Page 5 of 5
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James Bay Hydro project

    The James Bay hydro project is a massive hydro-electric power generation project that was started in 1972.  It was highly controversial at the time because of its monumental effect on both the environment of the area as well as the local Cree people.
    The project affected a huge area, diverted some very large rivers, and dammed others.  Areas that the Cree had used for thousands of years were flooded.  With the large influx of southerners and southern ways, their old way of life was devastated.  Alcoholism and all of the other related problems descended on them and tore apart their established way of life that was thousands of years old.
    Today they have to some extent adapted to the changes.  Many local Cree have jobs with Hydro Quebec.
    To their credit, Hydro Quebec says they have learned from its past. They say that today no new hydro-electric project can be constructed unless the local people want it.  The proposed project must also be environmentally sound (but of course that can be manipulated) and meet certain cost guidelines.  Recently Hydro Quebec wanted to build yet more generating capacity further north, on the Great Whale River.  However, the local people of that area rejected the proposal, and so the project was cancelled.

    You can get a tour of the main generating station, known as the Robert Bourassa generating facility, or LG2 (short for La Grande 2).  English language tours are available on request (ask at the Radisson tourist info booth).  I got a private tour since I was the only one requesting an English tour at the time.
    With a generating capacity of over 7300 Megawatts, this is the largest underground powerhouse in the world.  The entire James Bay project can generate up to 15,000 Megawatts of power, which is about 50% of the power generated in Quebec.  The dams that were built created the largest bodies of water created by humankind.

For more info about this massive hydro-electric project, click here.

Please note that there are many issues regarding the impact, advantages, and disadvantages of such a massive project, both pro and con.  I am purposefully avoiding addressing those issues here.  This web page is meant to be more of a reporting of my trip, with some background information.

Damming a river of this size necessitated some very large facilities to go with the project.  Here is the spillway, which is used if the water has to bypass the entire generating station for some reason.

Normally this spillway is empty, as shown here.

This is a view from the top of the spillway.  The sides are up to about 100 feet deep.

The size of the spillway gives you an idea of the size of the La Grande River!

Here is a view of the spillway from across the river at the bottom.

The giant steps are to slow down the flow of the water as it descends, and give rise to its common name of "giant's staircase".

 

This is the main dam.  It is 53 stories tall, higher than the Place Ville Marie building in Montreal.

And this is a view looking downstream from the top of the dam.  You get a bit of a sense of the massive scale of this project here.

Hydro Quebec planted 16 million trees and shrubs during and after the construction.

This small black spruce tree (in front of the white post) was one.  It is now 20 years old.  This shows the slow rate of growth in the far north regions.

Yes, that's me beside it.

My English-speaking guide may have been a good tour guide, but I guess his photography skills were a bit lacking.  The lake in the background is on a slant!

After the tour, I headed home.  Regretfully, since I have always loved being in the far north.  I camped part way down the James Bay Road, and headed the rest of the way home the next day (1262 km).

Here's one more picture of the lonely road through this huge empty country.

See - there are some hills after all!

 

I miss this big empty land - I think what I miss the most is the SILENCE, the emptiness, the quiet, the vastness.

But most of all the silence. 

 

THIS CONCLUDES THE TRAVELOGUE

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